How do brown spots appear ? Brown spots are caused by a disturbance in the skin’s pigment cells: the Melanocyte This overproduction of melanin is due to various factors, such as sun exposure (lentigo), hormonal change (melasma or pregnancy mask) and genetic predisposition (cross-breeding creates an infinite variety of skin colors, and keeping an eye on your skin is all the more important when you’re of mixed race). To treat these brown spots, depending on their size and intensity, some women turn to cosmetics, while others prefer dermatological care.
How to treat and remove brown spots ?
Today’s cosmetics aisles are full of anti-spot creams and serums. Composed of more or less concentrated exfoliating and depigmenting active ingredients, these cosmetics are essential in the treatment of dark spots and should be used at all stages: as prevention, as treatment for the lightest spots and as a complement to cosmetic treatments. The lightening active ingredients in these cosmetics will attenuate the intensity of pigmentation in spots, while the other active ingredients will improve the complexion’s radiance.
How do anti-spot cosmetics work ? They act on the superficial layers of the dermis. Anti-spot skincare products are composed of lightening/depigmenting agents, antioxidants and exfoliating active ingredients that help reduce melanin production, repair UV damage, desquamate the skin, restore radiance and help it regenerate. For effective skin care, opt for formulas containing depigmenting agents: Arbutin, L-niacid, kojic acid, glabridine… or blends of active ingredients. There is also growing interest in retinoic acid, derived from vitamin A acid, or antioxidants, notably vitamin C. Fruit acids (AHA or salicylic acid), glycolic acid or a-hydroxy acid also play a role in accelerating cell renewal. Note that cosmetics won’t make brown spots disappear completely, but they will help to fade them. For darker spots, more radical options may be considered, such as depigmenting peels.
Depigmenting peel : We recommend 21 days of skin preparation before the peel (why 21 days? because that’s the skin’s regeneration cycle). The principle: application of an anti-spot peel with fruit acids (AHA) or TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) to desquamate the skin and help it regenerate. This is followed by a depigmenting cream, which should be applied to the treated area for 8 hours. A post-peel protocol will be implemented for 1 month. Sunscreen must be applied throughout the treatment to avoid a rebound effect.
Practical info: Fair skins want to tan and black skins want to whiten. In both cases : DANGER Here’s a list of products that are dangerous for your skin Cosmetic depigmentation should never be used, and is forbidden: Hydroquinone, Mercury, Topical corticoids, Clobetasol propionate.
I hope this short presentation will help you make the right choices to preserve your skin color.